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前模特出书称这一行低收入更普遍,成千上万的失败者被掩盖了

2018-10-20 16:18:55    第一财经  参与评论()人

时装模特是对从业者外貌要求最严苛的行当了。因为做过多年模特,阿什利?米尔斯(Ashley Mears)谙熟经纪人的选择标准:“年轻、白皮肤、健康的牙齿和对称的五官,至少要有1.75米的身高,三围接近34、24、34。男模要有1.83~1.90米高,腰围在32,胸围在39~40之间。”不过,通过《美丽的标价》一书,米尔斯告诉人们的,却不是天赋的美貌有多重要,而恰恰是它有多“不重要”。当模特的身体进入商业系统,“美”便不再聚焦于他们自身。对美的定价权,分散在复杂的社会网络中。

前模特出书称这一行低收入更普遍,成千上万的失败者被掩盖了

计划写《美丽的标价》时,23岁的米尔斯还是纽约大学社会学研究院的新生,也是一位“退役”的“老模特”。一天,她正在曼哈顿一家星巴克看书,一个模特星探与她攀谈起来,强烈建议她加入他的经纪公司。米尔斯还记得,他用“很酷”、“纽约范儿”来形容她“很好的外形”。星探一番口吐莲花后,米尔斯决定重新登上T台,不单为走秀,也为了做社会调查,完成学位论文。这意味着,她要在做田野调查的同时,奋力节食,以礼貌与热情讨人喜欢,保持一个“靠外貌吃饭的审美劳动者的出色和风度”。

前模特出书称这一行低收入更普遍,成千上万的失败者被掩盖了

兼为局内人和观察者的几年中,米尔斯以大量访谈和亲身经历解释了这个行当的商业逻辑。在她看来,时尚界与艺术界有相似之处:“天赋是艺术品制作的一部分,但不应该是全部。”同样,模特的身体被标上怎样的价格,也不完全取决于模特本身,而是一个庞大的行业机制运转的结果。书中有一个例子或许可以对此稍做说明。米尔斯观察到,经纪人们对模特的喜好取决于他们的服务对象。商业经纪人更偏爱公式化的、经典的、安全的外形;服装陈列室经纪人想要的是精准至4~8码的身材;媒体类经纪人则要那种时髦的、新的、难以用语言描述的特点,他们不仅要漂亮,还要“很有意思”。

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